FINDING A RIDING INSTRUCTOR

It is very important that you know that ANYONE could put up an advertisement for horse riding lessons. Would you expect your school teachers to have a college degree? Your karate instructor to be a black belt? They don't need to be Jackie Chan or Chuck Norris, but it just makes sense that a riding instructor should should have a background that enforces their teaching ability. However in the United States, unlike many other countries, there are no laws governing qualifications for riding instructors. Because of this, there are many unschooled instructors using young, untrained, hot or just plain unsafe "lesson horses" in many barns. I hold a BS in Equestrian Science. My lesson and show horses have years of experience and most of them were personally trained by me from the ground up (the others I spent many months adjusting their training for a lesson program), so I know them inside and out.

What to look for in your instructor:
Can they do what they teach? What is your instructors background in riding, showing or teaching? If they don't have any, they simply are not qualified to be teaching. The most serious instructors will have a BS in the Equestrian field. There are also several governing bodies out there that will "certify" you in teaching - but beware - many of these organizations will certify instructors by giving them a basic written test by mail. (ARIA 1st level and CHA low levels are all written tests, mailed in, and have no professional person determining the actual teaching suitability of the persons or horses past what is on paper). Does lack of a degree or higher-leveling of certification mean that instructor is a poor or unsafe instructor? Not necessarily, but those who are unwilling or incapable of getting such educations are likely green to the equestrian field.

If you are looking to show, what qualifies your instructor to teach you the steps to take towards the winner's circle? Ask for a resume of Championships they themselves have received. Best awards in order from basic to highest: Single show (not worth much merit), Local (KC area), Year End (breed or association high point), Regional (surrounding states), National (USA), World. I am a full time professional equestrian having shown and trained horses for over a decade. I have many year end, regional awards, a national award and my greatest accomplishment being a 2x AQHA World Jumping Champion. I am currently showing at Grand Prix level (the highest level of competition available in the world) and training several prospects (young horses) that I hope will qualify me for the olympic games in the future.

What to look for in the lesson horses:

Physically, the horses should have good weight and a shiny coat. Note that ribs on some breeds of longer horses may show regardless of feeding (For example, the thoroughbred and thoroughbred cross, as well as other breeds this is common, just like tall, small framed people). Ideally, they are turned out to graze or exercise for at least several hours daily. Horses that live in stalls with no turnout are not able to play or exercise and these horses can act out during riding time. This also expresses a moral concern to many non-horse and horse people alike. Are horses meant to be held in stalls without turnout? That is up to you as you look at barns. My horses are turned out every day all day, I wouldn't have it any other way.

Horses by nature are prey animals and therefore by nature avoid unknowns and run from anything that could be danger. What makes a good lesson horse? Training (which costs money), lack of soundness (which slows them down, or lessens the value of a show horse), or age (which gives them training and exposure to many situations). The easiest and best of which is obviously age. In general, ages 10+ in horses with many riding/show experiences are most ideal. Also, ask how long your instructor has owned their lesson horses and what the horses previous background was. An instructor who cares for their animals will be invested in them. My very newest lesson horse I have owned for 3 years, while 2 of my lesson horses were mine when I was showing as a child/teen and I have owned them for 14 & 16 years.

Warning Signs of a Poor Lesson Barn:

*Lounging or running horses before the lesson. If your lesson horse has to be "worn out" before you can ride it, then that is NOT a safe mount for you.

*Training Devices. If your instructor has you ride with draw reigns or other head setting devices, the horse is not properly trained. (Note, this is obviously different if you are an advanced rider taking lessons in how to train a horse).

*"For Sale" Lesson horses. If you are in a barn where the majority of the lesson horses are for sale, chances are you are in a training barn that does lessons on the side. These horses once trained are sold and another less trained animal will be brought in to be used in lessons for the horse to gain more experience through using an inexperienced rider.

*No advancement. It's no secret in the horse world, many instructors will teach you in a way that makes you reliant on them so that you can't and won't ride without them (job security). Examples include not allowing you to go at a faster gate (walk, trot, canter, etc) when you are very balanced and in control at the slower gate and have been doing it for a minimum of several months, they might keep you on a lounge line for an undue amount of time, force you to take extra lessons then you originally signed up for ("__ lessons per week or I won't teach you"). Now, any of the above can occur and NOT be an example of a poor instructor, it is an instructors job to determine what is best for you, but if it continues to happen and you are not getting any better at riding, that instructor may not have your best interests in mind.

What should you pay?

This is a hard question to answer because lesson prices vary greatly throughout the country and even by cities. Break it down to basics and look at what it costs to KEEP a horse for a day...

I will use board cost ($325) plus additional feed costs because lesson horses are in heavy work and say each lesson horse would "technically" cost me around $11-15 to keep each day if I were to be boarding them (yes it costs me less of course, but by keeping a lesson horse in a stall I am also choosing not to keep a clients horse boarded in that stall). You would have to add to this vet bills/worming, farrier bills, buying tack, tack repairs, blankets, etc... barn maintaince, insurance... When you add it all up, let's average $20+ per lesson in costs (ouch, you had no idea did you!). A smart barn will cut costs by buying in bulk, caring for minor vet issues themselves, etc. Beware of the barn that cuts costs by cutting horse care (farrier, worming, vet on serious issues etc).

Decide what your instructor is worth to you. More qualifications (degrees/certifications/winnings/higher quality horses) will and should cost more money (though not always- expect a waiting list on a highly qualified instructor that is not charging higher for their lessons). Instructors with low pricing for the area should be a warning of things that have been mentioned above (working for free doesn't make sense). Lessons are paid per month, for a 4 lesson month you will pay $125 for group lessons.

FINDING A BOARDING STABLE

Stables come in all sizes and locations and offer different services. What may be the perfect stable situation for you may be absolutely horrible for the next person. First off, you need to determine what you need:

Turnout?
Stall?
Grain or Hay provided?
Indoor/Outdoor Arenas/Trails?
Farrier?
Vet?
Trailering?
Site Security?
Veterinary/First Aid Training?

First and foremost, what do you want for your horse? Should they be allowed to have pasture, dirt or no turnout? If no turnout, will you be able to provide enough exercise time each day to keep you horse physically and mentally happy?

Stall vs Pasture board. Horses that have difficulties with weight or adjusting to temperature changes will need to have a stall for at least night hours or inclimate weather. Horses that live in pasture should have some sort of shelter, whether a shed, wall or trees. We offer both stall and pasture board, our pasture does have shelter for both a shed and trees.

What feed is provided with your board? Brome hay and high quality grain.

Does the facility have adequate riding areas for your style of riding? 60x170 indoor, 140x170 outdoor, 40 acre riding pasture.

Will farriers/vets visit your barn? Yes.

If you do not own your own trailer, is the barn owner able to trailer your horse in case of emergency? Yes, I have a 2 horse straight load, a 4 horse slant load and a 7 horse slant load. All of my trailers are extra wide and extra tall.

Is there typically someone on site 24/7? This is very important in case of injury where time is crucial. Yes.

Is the person on site, or most often on site, qualified as a "first responder" to a serious injury to you or your horse? I'm almost always on site and have spent years a a large-animal intern. I have also been trained in human First Aid/CPR. If I am unavailable (away at a horse show, etc) you can always reach me by phone. I have many horse-savvy friends (and human nurses) within a few minutes drive that are willing to help if there is not another competent horse person at the barn at the time.

VISIT THE BARN

In general, the horses should be in good weight with shiny coats. Though injuries such as cuts and scrapes will happen in a herd situation, do you see many horses with many marks? If so, this barn is not turning the horses out in proper herds (aggressive horses with passive, etc).

A barn is a barn, therefore expect dust and flies. Look for more important (the dangerous) things such as power cords where horses can get caught on them or pitchforks laying down in the aisle way.

Is there safe area footing? Indoor is new sand/pea gravel. Outdoor sand/dirt.
Do the horses have constant water access? Yes.
Is there access to a restroom? Yes, located in our heated/air conditioned lounge.

BUYING A HORSE

First and foremost if you do not have extensive horse knowledge (and sometimes even if you do) always seek out the assistance of a horse professional that you trust. What may seem like a great buy may actually cost you hundreds or thousands in vet bills, training, etc. In the worse cases it may result in the loss of your animal or injury to yourself.

Any horse you buy should be vet checked. This may include from a simple health exam to extensive x-rays, but in the end this will save you money and in some cases much heart ache.

Trials. Is the seller willing to let you try the horse more then once, lease it for a short time or give you a soundness/happiness guarantee? Any private seller pushing for a quick sale does not have your or the horses best interest in mind. An honest seller will work with you to make sure that that horse is the right one for you. If they are pushy or not willing to work with you, MOVE ON, find a seller who will. Any of my broke horses for sale are welcome to a trial lease in my barn.

Price. Price really means nothing. I've seen poorly trained, bad conformationed horses for sale for hundreds of thousands of dollars as well as safe, "backyard" family horses with great confirmation for under a thousand. Typically, yes, a good horse is not cheap, but there are good horses for lower prices and poor horses for high prices. this is why taking an equine professional to look at a horse with you before the final purchase is key. (Note, a free horse is not a good horse 99% of the time. They typically will cost you more in training, vet bills, etc in the long run).